Chef Spotlight: Chef Nina from JK O’Donnell’s

JK O’Donnell’s has been a mainstay in the Downtown food scene since it opened its doors in 2007. In the nearly two decades it’s been open, plenty of restaurants have come and gone, yet JK’s remains. One reason is there’s nothing else like it—a charming Irish pub that feels like it was plucked from the Emerald Isle and dropped into the heart of Downtown. But the real secret to its staying power? It’s the way you feel at “home” when you’re there (queue the Cheers theme song, but with a fiddle and bodhrán).

The sense of camaraderie found at JK’s is palpable, from the pub’s cozy Trad concerts to its belly-warming food menu. If I’m speaking your language, then Chef Nina Hullinger (one of two executive chefs at JK’s) is your girl for a home-y meal away from home. Nina’s cooking feels whimsical and intimate—like it was prepared by your fairy-auntie, who spent the whole day in the kitchen, just because she heard you were coming to town. And somehow she did it effortlessly, without a recipe.

It’s that kind of love that makes Chef Nina’s food stand out: her plates are from the heart. And her soul shines through each dish she creates. Her meals feel like a hug—real and warm. Her style is thoughtful, yet unpretentious.

For the third installment of our Chef Spotlight series, we head to JK’s to learn more about Chef Nina’s signature style, and to get to know the woman behind the apron.

Meet Chef Nina of JK O’Donnell’s!

Molly: Working in the food industry is a labor of love that requires a lot of passion and sacrifice. When did you know you wanted to become a chef? Was there any particular moment that inspired the decision?

Nina: It all started with my family. I was always in the kitchen as a child, literally pulling on my mom’s apron strings. She was, and still is, an incredible cook. She would put new foods in front of me in my highchair and I would ask her, “Do I like this?” She of course would say yes, and it would become my new favorite thing. Eventually I got tall enough, and she made me my own work space on the counter. 

My dad also had a big influence on my love of food, which came from growing a garden with him. He was such a green thumb and gave me so much knowledge about growing and harvesting food. When you’re growing your own food for your own table, it just deepens the love you have for food. 

It wasn’t until I had worked through high school at Pizza Hut and was offered a job at a new Casa D’Angelo location that I knew it was what I wanted. The executive chef there made me his “gopher,” which meant I fetched all the things he needed when he was developing the restaurant’s features. I got to learn all of their sauces, stocks, and long meat braising techniques. 

I was hooked—on the work and the people. There is something life-giving about the humans who choose to do this work. It’s a lot to give of yourself. You give all day, and sometimes, all night long to the hospitality of others. But that’s why we’re here. And the goofballs who choose to do it with you are your friends for life. Period. 

Molly: How would you describe your personal style of cooking, and how has it evolved over the years?

Nina: My style of cooking is part nostalgia and part whatever I’m learning from or craving at the time. It’s continental, cultural, and multifaceted. I have favorites like anyone else, and it shows in the dishes and desserts I gravitate towards. I just believe that style of cooking is in moments and seasons and does not identify you. It’s always changing, and you have to cook to your mood. 

Molly: JK’s is known for their Irish fare and cozy environment. How has your approach to food been influenced by the pub?

Nina: I love that I’m not pigeonholed by Irish fare, and that I’m given the creative freedom to explore. I‘ll take traditional Irish ingredients and expand them into other worlds of food—from Irish Tiramisu to soy-ginger glazed lamb chops and Irish cider braised bok choy. Ireland is a very diverse country. I feel the whole of Europe and the US is a melting pot that brings us all the best food by sharing culture, ingredients, and quality time around a table. 

Molly: I love that approach. I feel like, sometimes, food fusion gets a bad rap in the culinary industry, but oftentimes, it can be a really great way to explore cuisines and get creative. When done right, it bridges cultures, making space for both traditional food and innovative food.  

JK’s is great at teetering between traditional Irish festivities and experimenting with food and entertainment. Speaking of which, do y’all have any special events coming up that people should look out for?

Nina: Yes! Stay tuned for future brunch pop-ups at the pub! We have a Star Wars Night coming up on the Pitch September 19th. A quintet from our own Philharmonic will be playing the score from Star Wars, and we’ll have some fun Star Wars inspired food and drinks available. 

Molly: I love it! The Phil is such an amazing addition to set the mood, especially with such a distinguished soundtrack.

Alright, back to food! If you had to pick one ingredient that you couldn’t live without, what would it be?

Nina: I will never live without a refrigerator door full of condiments and hot sauces, and tons of fresh garlic on hand. 

Molly: Yes! Fellow condiment queen here! My husband complains because he can never find anything in my jungle of condiments. And I can’t go on any trip without bringing back a local hot sauce. What’s an underrated ingredient that more people should use in their home kitchen?

Nina: I don’t really think any ingredient is underrated. It’s just knowing how to use them for what you’re trying to create. I think people get spice anxiety and don’t want to over season. You just need to learn to season with your heart!

Molly: When it’s your night off, and you’re dining out or getting takeout, where are you eating?

Nina: When I’m not cooking at home, I’m Doordashing from local Asian and Mexican restaurants. There’s a lot of pho that gets dropped off at my doorstep. 

Molly: What’s the best thing you’ve ever eaten?

Nina: The best thing I’ve ever eaten is anything made for me with love by someone else. Especially if it’s in or from their home kitchen! There is nothing more comforting than food made for you with love. Even if it’s a PB&J. 

Molly: So true! I wholeheartedly agree! Okay, last question: what’s your favorite dish on JK’s menu right now?

Nina:  I’m a sucker for a good burger. Ours is top-notch. I’m usually most excited about the features Ryan (Nina’s “co-chef”) and I have created that week. We put so much love into them, and we hope you can taste that when you order. Just like with the last question, nothing tastes better than when it’s made from the heart. 

Try Chef Nina’s food for yourself! Visit JK O’Donnell’s website for hours, event info, or to preview their menu!